Archives for 2012

Spruce – A Divine Food Experience in San Francisco

Spruce – A Divine Food Experience in San Francisco

Spruce, located in the posh Presidio Heights neighborhood, is an elegant yet comfortable restaurant where locals and food and wine enthusiasts meet to unwind and savor spot-on meals accompanied with interesting wines.

At Spruce, Chef Mark Sullivan features seasonal menus showcasing the freshest organic produce, naturally-raised meats and line-caught fish.  His fabulous food is paired with wines selected by Andrew Green to complete the outstanding gastronomic experience.

Some of the enticing starters at Spruce are the Heritage Pork Consommé ($14) – Swiss chard, Hamada cherries and smoked lardo, the White Bean Caramelle ($17) – haricot vert, speck with a mustard emulsion and the Hudson Valley Foie Gras ($23) – Vadouvan waffle, pear jelly and pistachio.

Making an entrée selection is beyond difficult considering the tempting options.  Slow Roasted Beef Short Rib ($31) – red wine farotto, erbette chard, young carrots and horseradish velouté, the Grilled Kona Kanpachi ($35) – preserved garden vegetables, clams, rice and Satsuma vinaigrette and the Charred Berkshire Pork Tenderloin ($30) – crispy pork belly with shelling beans.  Although of the highest quality, the Kanpachi was closer to an appetizer portion.  The Berkshire pork with its decadent pork belly counterpart and the short rib with the faro “risotto” were both stellar.

The wine list reads like a novel and features a good balance of affordable, interesting wines and classic cult favorites.  There are over 30 wines by the glass options and an extensive half bottle selection perfect for pairing with several courses.  Our party opted for the Gonet Medeville Brut Tradition NV, 2009 Fillaboa Granja Albarino Rias Baixas, the 2009 Coltibuono Chianti Classico and finally the 2005 Chateau La Tour Blanche Sauternes to end the meal.

Desserts like the warm apple pie with stout caramel ($10), the beignets with chocolate sauce and crème Anglaise and the Meyer lemon curd cake ($10) sound tantalizing, but with the exquisite dessert wine and port list, the artisanal cheese selection ($16) seems like an idyllic fit.

Spruce won’t disappoint food and wine enthusiasts with the highest of expectations.  I look forward to returning.

3640 Sacramento Street, San Francisco, CA 94118 (415-931-5100).

Hours: Monday – Thursday: 11:30AM – 2:30PM, 5PM – 10PM.  Friday: 11:30AM – 2:30PM, 5PM – 11PM. Saturday: 5PM – 11PM.  Sunday: 5PM – 10PM.

 

2009 Coltibuono Chianti Classico

2009 Coltibuono Chianti Classico

This Italian wine is vibrant red in the glass.  The 2009 Coltibuono Chianti Classico offer spiced red berries on the nose and big berry flavors on the palate with a little chocolate and some earthiness.  Nice level of acidity and long, pleasant finish.

Pairings:  Pasta and red sauce. Grilled meats.

Style: Red

Grape Type(s): Sangiovese

Region: Tuscany, Italy

Around $15.

 

Gonet Medeville Brut Tradition NV

Gonet Medeville Brut Tradition NV

For fans of fuller-bodied sparkling wines (me, me, me), this is a super option.

There’s apple and pear on the nose.  This French champagne offers an earthiness and mouth-watering apple and peach flavors with hints of vanilla.  Long, dry and completely enjoyable finish.

Nicer than most champagnes at this price point.

90 Points Wine Spectator.

Pairings:  Lobster, ripe berries, cheese souffle.

Style: Sparkling

Grape Type(s): Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir

Region: Champagne, France

Around $40.

 

2010 Graffigna Centenario Malbec Reserve

2010 Graffigna Centenario Malbec Reserve

Nearly black in the glass, this Argentine wine is fragrant with dark berries on the nose.  On the palate, this medium to full-bodied wine offers aromas of ripe raspberries, dates and notes of pumpkin pie spices.  The finish is medium in length and showcases oaky and peppery notes.

I poured half the bottle through my Vinturi wine aerator and had the rest straight out of the bottle.  Aerating or decanting would be optimal for this young wine.

Pairings:  Grilled rack of lamb or Thai food.

Style: Red

Grape Type(s): Malbec

Region: San Juan, Argentina

Around $10.

This wine was provided to me for sampling and I am adding to my repertoire as it is truly enjoyable.

 

Welcoming Osteria Morini to New Jersey

Welcoming Osteria Morini to New Jersey

Last week, I dined Osteria Morini in Bernardsville to try some of its dishes, post grand opening.

The restaurant, formerly occupied by Chef Michael White’s Due Terre, has been redesigned to offer a more casual atmosphere than its predecessor.

Polpettines

The food is simply outstanding.  Chef White, the 2011 James Beard Award for Best Chef in New York, along with Chef de Cuisine, Kevin Knevals, use ingredients from Emilia-Romagna and some locally-grown foods to prepare dishes that are both refined and rustic.

For starters, the cured meats board is a must and can be ordered in a choice of one ($7), three ($17) or five ($25) meats.  The calamari ($12) with herbed bread crumbs, tomato and kale is fork-tender and deliciously crunchy and my favorite starter. The Polpettines ($10) – prosciutto and mortadella meatballs baked in tomato sauce are moist and flavorful and should be ordered.

The individual pizzas baked in the kitchen’s brick oven, are great options ($11-$14).  The classic Margherita with tomato, bufalo mozzarella and basil and the Salsiccia with fennel sausage, pomodoro and mozzarella are tops.

Pastas are hand-made, cooked-to-order and should be what you order if a fan of perfectly al dente pastas dressed modestly with the very best of ingredients.  Each pasta can be ordered as a half or full dish.  Some favorites are the Lumache Verde ($19) – spinach pasta, lamb ragu, artichoke, fava and ricotta salata and the Garganelli ($20) – pasta quills, cream, radicchio, truffle butter, prosciutto and peas.

Entrées to try are the Branzino ($28) – grilled sea bass, salsa verde, wild arugula and lemon and the Anatra ($29) – crispy duck breast, lentils, braised red cabbage and saba.

The wine list is extensive and features Italian but also New World wines.  There are many wines served by the glass also.

Desserts ($10) are all solid and some good bets are the Panna Cotta with citrus cream and the Torta Barozzi, a rich chocolate almond torte.

This place puts forth one great meal and I look forward to my next visit,

 

Veronique

 

Osteria Morini

107 Morristown Road Bernardsville, NJ 07924

Telephone: 908-221-0040    

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. (brunch) and 3 to 9 p.m. (dinner) Sundays.

2009 Fillaboa Granja Albarino Rias Baixas

2009 Fillaboa Granja Albarino Rias Baixas

I enjoyed this wine at San Francisco’s Spruce restaurant, which I highly recommend, and absolutely loved it.

On the nose, this Spanish wine is perfumed with sweet green apple and light lemony notes.  In the mouth, this affordable Albarino is crisp and dry with lime zest and more green apple flavors.  The finish is long with a great level of acidity.

Pairings:  Pork belly, blackened chicken, grilled salmon.

Style: White

Grape Type(s): Albarino

Region: Rias Baixas, Spain

Around $20.

 

2010 Domaine Tortochot Morey St Denis

2010 Domaine Tortochot Morey St Denis

I had the privilege of sampling eight Domaine Tortochot wines at a recent event and was wowed by all of them.  This wine is the ‘entry level’ wine for this producer and it’s delicious.

In the glass is purple in color pushing me for that first sniff.  Beautiful fruity nose and aromas finishing with slightly spicy notes.  Really nice lighter-bodied Grand Vin de Bourgogne.

Pairings:  Grilled chicken or duck. Seared tuna.

Style: Red

Grape Type(s): Pinot Noir

Region: Burgundy, France

Around $40

 

World Malbec Day – Celebrate from the Comforts of Home

World Malbec Day – Celebrate from the Comforts of Home

World Malbec Day, April 17th, offers an interesting platform for Malbec lovers to compare wines of this varietal, share their thoughts about them on Twitter and Facebook, see what other tasters have to say and add new wines to their favorites list.

If you’ve never participated in an online wine tasting, it’s great fun:

  1. Buy your favorite bottle of the featured grape varietal, in this case, Argentine Malbec.
  2. Invite some folks to share the experience, or snuggle in your JPs in front of the computer.
  3. Sip and share your wine comments with other tasters from around the world!

What I’ll be uncorking for the big day:

  • 2010 Graffigna Centenario Malbec, an affordable ($12) little number from Argentina.

Remember to use the hashtag #MalbecDay to participate in the celebrations on Twitter (are we connected there? @foodwinechickie) or share your tasting notes on the Wines of Argentina Facebook page.

About Malbec:  Malbec is medium to full-bodied and offers ripe fruit flavors of plums and blackberry with notes of vanilla, spice and tobacco.

Typical Malbec Food Pairings:  Red meats are the perfect pairing for Malbec, but it can also stand up to spicy Mexican, Cajun, Indian or Italian foods.  BBQ is great matched with Malbec.

Salud!

Veronique

Herb Grilled Rack of Lamb over Minted Pea Purée

Herb Grilled Rack of Lamb over Minted Pea Purée

It’s springtime and for me, that means the official start of grilling season (I grill in the winter, but less often).  Using fresh spring produce is such a treat and when peas are in season, I’m drawned to rack of lamb, grilled simply over a mound of sweet, minted pea purée.

Ingredients:

  • 2 – 3/4 pound each racks of lamb, frenched and silver skin removed
  • ½ cup olive oil
  • 1 tsp. each fresh rosemary, mint, salt and pepper
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • Minted Pea Purée
  • Mint oil (combine ¼ cup of olive oil and 1 Tbsp. fresh mint in food processor and pulse for 1 minute)

Directions:

  1. Place the lamb in a large resealable bag and add the olive oil, herbs and garlic.  Seal the bag and massage the olive oil mixture into the meat.  Refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.
  2. 30 minutes before grilling, take the lamb out of the refrigerator and allow to come to room temperature.  Coat grill grates with cooking spray then light and warm to medium-high heat.
  3. Place lamb on grill and cook for approximately 10 minutes, turning once, until a meat thermometer registers 145 degrees for medium-rare or 160 degrees for medium. If the bones begin burning while grilling, wrap them in aluminum foil.  Let the lamb stand, covered in aluminum foil, 10 minutes before slicing into chops.
  4. Serve lamb over pea purée with a drizzle of mint oil.

6 servings.

 

Simple Minted Pea Purée

Simple Minted Pea Purée

Pea purée can be served with so many foods – poached salmon, grilled rack of lamb, seared scallops – the choices are endless.  While best prepared with fresh spring peas, this recipe is equally delicious made with frozen peas.

Ingredients:

  • ½ tsp. salt for the boiling water saucepan
  • 3 cups fresh peas, shelled or 2 10-ounce boxes of frozen peas
  • 2 Tbsp. grated Parmesan cheese
  • 2 Tbsp. fresh mint leaves
  • 1 Tbsp. softened butter
  • 1 small shallot, finely minced
  • ½ cup vegetable or chicken broth
  • ¼ tsp. each salt and pepper

Directions:

  1. In a medium saucepan over high heat, cook the peas in salted boiling water until tender, about 5 minutes for fresh and 3 minutes for frozen. Drain and add to a food processor (could mash by hand if need be). Add cheese, mint leaves, butter and shallot.
  2. Purée pea mixture, adding the broth a little at a time to loosen the mixture if too thick.  The end result should be a light, runny oatmeal-like-consistency purée.
  3. Season with salt and pepper then transfer the mixture to a microwaveable bowl.  Reheat in microwave for 1 minute when ready to serve.

Yields 4 servings.